Exotic breeds

Through the years, cat breeders have had visions of creating a cat fitting a unique image. The Himalayan is a good example of a great idea: a longhaired cat with the color markings of a Siamese. The Himmy is an example of an idea that caught the imagination of breeders and resulted in the acceptance of our beautiful pointed Persians.

EARLY HISTORY OF THE EXOTIC

This same creative instinct was in place when the Exotic was first envisioned. The Exotic vision started from more than one direction. Some thirty plus years ago, American Shorthair breeders on several fronts had an idea they felt would improve the color of their breed, and perhaps give them new directions for additional colors in their cats. They began to breed their American Shorthairs to Silver Persians in an effort to get the lovely silver coat color and green eye color. The resulting kittens from these breedings were pleasing to look at, but did not resemble true American Shorthairs. Be that as it was, sufficient outcrosses were being introduced from these breedings to catch the attention of Jane Martinke. She noticed that changes were gradually taking place in the American Shorthair type and coat texture. Jane, with her vision and foresight, saw both the harm that could be done to the American Shorthair breed through the continuation of these outcrosses, and also the possibilities presented by this adorable cat. In 1966, she proposed to the CFA Board of Directors the creation of a new breed.

The name originally proposed for this new breed was to be "Sterling," from their beautiful silver color. These cats were to look like Persians, but with a short, plush coat. The original concept was to allow cats to transfer from American Shorthair classes to this new shorthaired class if they had been hybridized with Persians. The discussion over this new breed resulted in the development of the standard for the Exotic Shorthair. The standard was the same as that for the Persian except that, in the beginning, the cat did not need to have a nose break. Although originally the standard was intended to be written just for the silver color, all Persian colors were accepted into the new Exotic Shorthair breed right from the beginning. Also, even though the outcross was originally conceived as being a hybrid American Shorthair x Persian, the rules were broadly interpreted at first, and any CFA-registered shorthair could be used as a cross. Early breeders used American Shorthair and Burmese for their excellent body and moderate head; a few breeders used outcrosses to the Russian Blue for the plush double coat. To my knowledge, no oriental-type cats were used because of the complete opposite requirements in body type. Any breeder desiring a pointed Exotic had to cross to a Himalayan to achieve that outcome. It is very important to remember that, even though the shorthair gene was initially achieved through the outcross to many different breeds, early breeders made few such outcrosses. Once the original outcross was made, the shorthair offspring were taken right back to Persians, not back to shorthaired cats of other breeds. The goal from the beginning has been to create a Persian with short hair, so once the shorthair gene was introduced, no further outcrossing was necessary.

THE VISION

As I said in the beginning, many people had been inspired by the vision of the shorthaired Persian. Doris Walkingstick, Grayfire Cattery, speaks with great conviction of her "spirit" vision of a beautiful shorthaired silver Persian. She set out to breed such a cat and met with much success in the early days of the Exotic. She bred and exhibited CFA's first Exotic grand champion, Grayfire Cheyenne. Doris went on to breed three other grands. Janice Walkingstick, Doris's daughter, continues to breed Exotics under the Walkingstick cattery name.

Carolyn Bussey, of New Dawn Cattery, has been breeding cats since the early '50s. Early in her career, in the latter part of the '50s, she was determined to try to create a brown Persian. For her first cross she bred a Burmese, for the brown color, to a red tabby Persian. Because brown is recessive, the resulting kittens were black. Carolyn reports that they were adorable little kittens and the idea occurred to her then to create a shorthaired Persian. She worked toward that goal, registering her kittens with ACFA. (At that time there were very few CFA shows in the Northwest and Carolyn exhibited mostly in ACFA.) By the time Exotics were accepted in CFA, Carolyn already had a big jump on what was to become a very successful Exotic program. Although much has been said about Burmese in the background of the Exotic, Carolyn only outcrossed twice; once in the late '50s and once again in the early '60s. This means that by the time her cats were finally transferred to CFA registration, the Burmese crosses were already several generations back. Carolyn went on to have three national winning Exotics and twenty-four grand champions. Her cats are the foundation for many other Exotic lines. When Carolyn decided to breed white Exotics, she introduced top-winning Persian lines using a Babalong male, producing kittens with exceptional type.

SOME EARLY SUCCESS STORIES

In the early days of the Exotic, the breed was met with resistance from many Persian breeders. It was very difficult to get good Persian lines to work with. Many Persian breeders would not hear of having their lines being used to breed Exotics. This made early progress slow and difficult. Established Persian breeders who wanted to press the advancement of the Exotic found progress easier. One such early success story was Docia-Dao Cattery owned by Barbara and Don Yoder, who used their main Persian stud, Docia-Dao The Mug, a white masking smoke. They also outcrossed to a Burmese and soon had beautiful black smokes. Docia Dao Trilby did much to excite the fancy about this new breed. Trilby was the first national winning Exotic. She achieved three national wins, a record that has yet to be broken by another Exotic. Trilby received 2nd Best Kitten and 18th Best Cat in 1973 and 9th Best Cat in 1974. Docia-Dao Cattery also had the Best Kitten in 1974 with Docia-Dao Supercat and, in 1975, had the 3rd Best Kitten with Docia-Dao Super Colossal. Though the Yoders met with much early success, they bred Exotics only on a limited basis. There is very little, if any, of their bloodline remaining behind today's Exotics. The Yoders quit breeding altogether in 1980 and Trilby and others were spayed.

Kalamar's Sweet Pea of Swany followed close behind Trilby achieving two national wins. She was 2nd Best Kitten to Supercat in 1974, and in 1975 was 3rd Best Cat. Sweet Pea was bred by Cal and Marge Lee and owned by Don Swanson.

In 1976, Don Swanson bred Swany's That Other Woman, a blue female who achieved Best Shorthair Kitten. In 1978, Swany's Jade of Chateau Blanc achieved 17th Best Cat. Don used Kalamar Exotics and a Persian male, Simbelair Fanfare, as the basis for his line. Swany's Red Trumpeter of Dala, a longhaired Exotic (Fanfare x Sweet Pea), bred back to his dam produced GC Dala Twilight Zone of Grandaries. Twilight Zone was 16th Best Cat nationally in 1983.

Desmin, a long established CFA Cattery of Excellence, is still producing fine Exotics today. Johanna Leibfarth registered her cattery in 1972 and began working to produce color-bred blue Exotics. Her union with Chandelle Cattery (Ed, her future husband) continued the successful breeding, adding the beautiful bi-colors. Johanna bred the first Exotic DM, Desmin Dawne of Kapa. Johanna also served as Exotic Breed Council Secretary and has written much of the history of the Exotic in Yearbook and Almanac articles. Johanna's Desmin Cattery should rightfully be proud of its 27 Exotic grands.

In 1973, Sue Fraser of Lion House Cattery, began breeding Exotics. Her first Exotics came from Leprechaun Cattery. She then acquired GC Lowlands Tom Cat of Lion House. Tom produced many fine cats for Sue, including one very special to me, GC, GP Lion House Fast Freda of Bard. In 1984, GC Lionhouse Marvelous Mavis was Second Best of Breed nationally. Sue reports that she now only has one cat left in her breeding program that goes back to "Tom Cat." In recent years Sue has been producing lovely blacks, whites, and bi-colors.

My husband Jim and I began breeding cats in 1969 as Bard Cattery and entered into Exotic breeding in 1974. Don and Barbara Yoder's Trilby was my inspiration. Through the years I have had many different colors, but I seem to have narrowed my range to white, black, brown tabby and now, a small venture into bi-colors. I have served the past four years as Exotic Breed Council Secretary. I am proud of the eleven grand champion Exotics of my own breeding, and I have enjoyed showing and granding six Exotics from other catteries. Several of these cats became both grand champions and grand premiers.

GC Cyndi-Kits Paper Tiger certainly made his mark on the Exotic world. Jane Stephens began breeding Exotics in 1980 and Paper Tiger was her foundation male for many years. "P.T." was out of Squire's Zuper Hot and Cyndi-Kits Faline. P.T. was the male we all dream of who consistently threw kittens with his same wide-open, sweet look. Many catteries that are today breeding brown and blue tabbies have P.T. somewhere in their pedigree. As well as being known for her tabbies, Jane also produced many lovely bi-colors from Cyndi-Kits Eric.

DEVELOPMENT OF THE STANDARD

From the beginning, the standard for the Exotic was written with the goal of creating a Persian with a shorter, more care-free coat. Early breeders outcrossed to shorthairs to get the shorthair gene and then continued to take those cats back to Persians to get closer to the Persian standard. As the Persian standard evolved, so did the standard of the Exotic. As Persians became more "typy," so did the Exotic. As the breed became more popular, more and more Persian breeders were willing to allow their lines to be used in Exotic breeding programs and even began breeding Exotics themselves.

The original Exotic standard did not call for the nose to have a break because early Exotics came from American Shorthairs which did not have a break, and the board felt that it would be unfair to have the nose break requirement. As the Exotics came closer to the Persian standard, in 1973 the words "with break" were added to the standard.

In 1975, allowable outcrosses were narrowed to Persian and American Shorthair which means that Burmese and other shorthair breeds have not been allowed for 21 years. The Exotic standard stayed almost the same until 1978, at which time the breed council felt that there should be more emphasis placed on the unique plush coat of the Exotic. At that time, the points allotted for condition were removed and added to the coat, thus giving the coat 20 points.

The standard remained relatively the same for almost ten years. For the 1987-88 show season the "balance" section was created, and points for this new section were taken from the points allotted to head. The disqualify section was expanded to conform to the Persian standard. At this same time, American Shorthairs were removed from allowable outcrosses. For the past nine years, the Exotic's only allowable cross has been to the Persian. Indeed, CFA litter registration statistics show that for the five years prior to the Exotic x American Shorthair cut-off, only five percent of Exotic litters registered had an American Shorthair parent. By the 1980s, the gene pool was broad enough that it was no longer felt to be beneficial to "re-invent the wheel" by going back to the shorthair outcross.

Beginning with the 1990 show season, the Exotic standard was completely realigned to be identical to the Persian standard except for the coat description. Exotic breeders voted to do this by an 89% margin. The time had come. After 23 years of breeding Exotics, breeders felt that there was no doubt that the plush-coated Persian was on its way. It was agreed that thereafter Exotics would include in their standard any changes made to the Persian standard.

Color changes through the years have kept up with newly added Persian colors. In 1985, the Exotic Breed Council voted to automatically accept any new Persian colors added to the standard. At the February 1990 board meeting, the board ruled this policy unconstitutional. Currently, all proposed color changes are voted on by both the Persian and Exotic councils. If a new color is accepted by the Persian council and also accepted by the Exotic council and passed by the board, it becomes a new color for the Exotic and the Persian.

THE EXOTIC NUMBERING SYSTEM

The color numbering system for the Exotics is based on the color numbering system of the Persian. For example, a black Persian male is 0108, a black Exotic male is 7708, a black colorpoint-carrying Persian male is 3008, and a colorpoint carrying black Exotic male is 7508. Our numbering system hits a snag, however, when identifying the longhair Exotics. An AOV number (7798 and 7799) exists for all longhair colors. However, many times CFA issues a regular Exotic color number to these cats. Often the breeder does not know that this is not correct; therefore, we do not have an accurate account of how many longhair Exotics are really out there. It would be helpful to have a color number and a coat indicator such as an L after the number to indicate a longhair (a black longhair Exotic male would be 7708L) This year's registration statistics show AOV registrations number fifth among all Exotic colors registered. But all AOV longhairs, no matter what color, are given the same number. Regardless of what the future holds for the Exotic, both longhair and shorthair, they will continue to carry their own unique number just as the Himalayan carries its identifying number. Numbering systems are designed to help breeders make informed choices in their breeding programs.

CHALLENGES

Breeding Exotics can be filled with frustration. From the beginning, the goal has always been to create a cat that looked like a Persian with a short, plush coat. Sounds simple enough, right? Not so. In the beginning, over 30 years ago, breeders used a variety of shorthaired cats. Most used American Shorthairs, some used Burmese and a few used Russian Blues. The purpose in using these cats was to get the shorthair gene. Once this was accomplished, shorthair progeny of the first outcross were bred back to Persians. A common misconception seems to be that this outcrossing was done a lot. Although many of the original Exotic breeders are no longer breeding, pedigree research shows a few outcrosses. This outcrossing was done so long ago that it is difficult to trace far enough back on most Exotic pedigrees to find the original shorthair cross. By the '80s Exotics had established Persian type and there was no need to outcross to other breeds. The Persian gene pool was large and breeders could go in many directions for color and type. When CFA established group one and group two (longhair and shorthair) in 1984, the Exotic was moved to the group one, or longhair, class. The board felt that this was a Persian-type cat and should be judged in the same specialty as the Persians. By doing so, CFA acknowledged that the Exotic was indeed a Persian!

GENETICS

Most Exotics today have top Persian bloodlines in their pedigrees. Persian breeders today do not seem to have a problem with their cats being used in Exotic breeding programs. In fact, many Persian breeders have tried Exotics at one time or another. Breeding Exotics can become very frustrating and sometimes discouraging because of the number of longhair kittens produced. The longhair kittens in the litter may be used in Exotic breeding programs, but they will breed the same as a Persian. They must be bred to a shorthair in order to throw shorthair kittens. Bred to a longhair, Exotic or Persian, all the kittens would be longhair. It can be very discouraging to have a beautiful kitten that has no place in the show ring. Exotic breeders want the same right as Himalayan breeders, to be able to champion and grand deserving cats. Our primary concern is giving these cats a chance to compete. The following is a short course in coat and color genetics from Dr. Heather Lorimer: "For informational purposes, dilute color, pointedness, and longhair are all recessives and can therefore be carried, hidden, essentially forever by cats that have the dominant phenotype (dense color, non-pointed, shorthair). Thus, two lilac point Balis or Persians could only throw more of the same, whereas two ebony Oriental Shorthairs or Exotic Shorthairs could throw longhair, dilute, and/or pointed if they carried the appropriate genes." The dream of all Exotic breeders is to have a homozygous shorthair. This is a cat that will have only shorthair offspring, even when bred to a longhair. These cats are not easy to come by and the only way to determine which cat is homozygous is through breeding. A homozygous Exotic can only result from a breeding of shorthair to shorthair and, in most cases, grandparents need to be shorthairs also. Because all of our cats carry the recessive longhair gene it is impossible to eliminate all longhair kittens. It has been a difficult task to maintain the proper plush coat and type through repeated generations of short to short breeding.

EXOTIC MORSE CODE - SHORTS AND LONGS

Once your breeding is done and the kittens arrive, then comes the wait to see which are longhairs and which are shorthairs. Here are some tips gathered from Exotic breeders on how to make an educated guess. While the kittens are still wet the longhair coat may have a wavy appearance. After the kittens are dry, rub the hair backwards on the back of the cat. The shorthair kittens will have a more bristly feel to the coat. Hold the kitten up to the light and look at the hair on the top of its head. The shorthair kittens will have a halolike appearance with guard hair sticking slightly above the other hair. Now that your predictions have been made it is time to sit back and wait to see if you are right. For the first two to three weeks, as the hair grows, sometimes it is hard to tell. At about three weeks, when they all look fuzzy and you wonder what is going on, don't get discouraged. A good rule of thumb is to watch the tails on the kittens. The longhair kittens will have tails that resemble little Christmas trees. The hair on the tails of the shorthairs will stay short. I personally find white kittens the most difficult to predict. I have been fooled by the whites more than once. As the kittens reach eight or nine weeks and you are sure you know which is which, you may look one day at your favorite shorthair kitten and it looks like someone stuck its tail in a light socket. The guard hairs are sticking out all over giving the kitten a spiky appearance. No, it is not time to get the stripping comb, it is time to be patient. Kittens that go through this stage usually end up having excellent thick, plush coats. This is seldom seen in the judging ring because it is usually gone by the time the kitten is four months old. The strange thing about this spiky coat is that it seems to disappear overnight. One day you look at the kitten and realize that the coat is all evened out as if by magic.

POPULAR COLORS

Although the Exotic started off to be a silver cat, much has changed through the years. The most popular colors now, according to CFA statistics, are black, tortoiseshell, red tabby, brown tabby and recently, the bi-color. I think that further analysis would show a direct correlation to colors that are popular in Persians. Remember not so long ago when there might be 15 black Persians in a show? Is it any wonder that we have a lot of top notch black Exotics? And where did the Torties come from? Why, all the blacks, of course. Colors seem to go in cycles. (I guess that means that I have been around too long. I am now starting to see the cycle start over again!)

RECENT HISTORY OF THE BREED

Werner and Irene Kachel, Bryn Mawr Cattery, began breeding Exotics in the late '70s. At that time, Exotics were considered shorthair cats and Werner used the Exotic as one of his breeds for the shorthair judging program. The Kachels have had three national winning Exotics. This past season, GC, NW Bryn Mawr Bugsy Malone finished as 4th Best Cat. We are pleased to have Bugsy on the cover of this month's Almanac. The Kachels are also the proud owners of CFA's fourth Exotic Distinguished Merit cat, GC, NW Jovan Miss USA of Bryn Mawr, DM.

When Cheryl and Bob Lorditch, Jovan Cattery, began using their lovely Persians to breed Exotics, no one could possibly have imagined the impact that they would have on the breed. What they did for the breed was astounding. They lead the list in number of grands produced, have eight national winners and gave the Exotic worldwide recognition. In 1991, GC, NW Jovan the Legend was CFA's Cat of the Year. This is an honor many breeds have yet to attain. The following year, GC, NW Jovan Cheers was CFA's Best Kitten. The Jovan "look" is a hallmark for us all.

While Jovan has been busy on the East Coast, Becky Orlando, of Becton Cattery, has been busy on the West Coast. Becky has produced many lovely Exotics with the trademark "Becton eyes." Becton has had numerous regional and two national winning cats. Her cats are sought after by breeders who like the wide-open, sweet expression her Exotics are famous for. Becton's Miss Behavin was the third Exotic to become a DM.

DISTINGUISHED EXOTICS

At the time of writing, there are five Exotic DMs. They are all females. I am sure that Exotics have contributed to the DM status of many Persians as well. The first DM was Desmin Dawne of Kapa, a blue Exotic female. Dawne was bred by Johanna Dobler Leibfarth and owned by Chuck Hickman. She achieved her DM in April of 1984. It would be nine years before the next DM, Telone Plain Jane, a tortie female bred and owned by Teresa and Linda Nelson, received her DM in April of 1993. 1995 was a very good year with three new Exotic DMs. In February of 1995, Becton's Miss Behavin achieved her DM. She is also a tortie bred by Becky Orlando. Becky reports her accomplishments as follows: Miss Behavin is the mother of eight CFA grands (six one-show grands), six regional winners, one national breed winner and two national winners (one premier and one kitten). She did all this by the age of three-and-a-half! Congratulations! That is an accomplishment to be proud of! Becky reports that Miss Behavin is now spayed and living happily in a pet home. The fourth DM, and the second in 1995, is GC, NW Jovan Miss USA of Bryn Mawr, a brown mackerel tabby female bred by Bob and Cheryl Lorditch and owned by Werner and Irene Kachel. Miss USA achieved her title in April of 1995. The fifth DM, and the third in 1995, was Ziegfelds Barette of Luvlypurr, a red tabby female bred by Ron and Bobby Zibble. She is owned by Mike Jones, Paul Patton and Brian Pearson. Barette received her title in October of 1995.

DISTINGUISHED CATTERIES

Breeding Exotics is certainly a challenge. Throughout the history of our breed there have been many catteries that have made their mark on Exotic history. Some catteries, unfortunately, are not still actively breeding. I am sure that I have omitted catteries that should have been mentioned, and for that I am very sorry. I have tried to highlight catteries that are still actively breeding or that have made a significant contribution to the breed. In the articles mentioned in my bibliography, there are many other catteries mentioned. As a tribute to catteries that have made a significant contribution, here is a list of catteries that have had ten or more grands. They are listed in order from highest number to lowest number according to my records at the time of writing this article. The catteries are: Jovan, Desmin, New Dawn, Lion House, Becton, Dancecats, Bard, Cyndi-Kits, Docia-Dao.

THE FUTURE

The Exotic has been the center of a major controversy in CFA for the past several years. Questions have been raised about its place in the fancy. Where do these cats belong? What is their breed classification? Should the longhairs be accepted? If so, as what? Since 1984, when CFA established different groupings for longhair and shorthair cats, breeders have begun to question the rightful place of the Exotic. With the acceptance of the Himalayan as a Pointed Persian, still more questions were raised. Has the Exotic established its confirmation to the Persian standard so that we are no longer producing a hybrid-type animal? Have we become established in our own right? Isn't 30 years enough time to establish a breed? This has become a very emotional issue, and, as a result, some facts get misinterpreted. I have attempted to outline the facts. The future of the breed and what is to become of our longhair kittens is still undecided. The cat fancy must change and grow. Breeds develop and change. Just look at our Persians and Exotics of 10 or 15 years ago. What changes we have made! Regardless of what may happen, the Exotic is a cat with much to offer the cat fancy and the pet-buying public as well. To the public, the concept of a shorthaired Persian is no harder to understand than that of a rough- or smooth-coated Collie, for example. Many breeds of cats and dogs have short- and longhaired varieties. Many people love the Persian but lack the commitment it takes to care for a long coat. A Persian is more than just a long coat. A Persian is a heavy, stocky body, short tail and, most of all, that adorable flat face with the sweet expression. Let's give people choices and options. Through CFA's comprehensive numbering system it is possible to give breeders a chance to make informed decisions about cats they choose to use in their breeding programs. Above all, let's look to the future. We have learned from the past that variety strengthens the fancy. Breeding is an outlet for creating, improving and making our chosen breed more beautiful.

Bibliography

1. "A Cat Ahead of Its Time," Phil Maggitti. CFA Almanac, June 1985.

2. "An Exotic Dilemma," Johanna Leibfarth. CFA Almanac, December 1988.

3. "The Exotic Shorthair," Rosemond S. Peltz and Joan S. Uzee. CFA Yearbook, 1972.

4. "Exotic Shorthairs, The Long and the Short of It." Johanna Leibfarth. CFA Almanac, August 1990.

5. "The Extraordinary 'Exotic,'" Marna Fogarty. CFA Yearbook, 1977.

6. "We've Only Just Begun," Johanna Leibfarth. CFA Yearbook, 1985.

7. "White Persians...A Ball of Fluff," Vicki Dickerson. CFA Yearbook, 1983.


Credit : Barbara Sims (CFA)

Siamese breeds

Like cycles in fashion, time produces reevaluations of historical events often brought about by new discoveries. Sometimes it is archaeological evidence; sometimes it is archival through scholarly research. In recent years it has been fashionable to regard the legends surrounding "The Royal Cats of Siam" as more fancy than fact. It is interesting that the earliest publications in England consistently refer to the breed as both "The Royal Cat of Siam" and "Siamese." This has to do with the claim of protection and breeding under royal supervision in Siam by those who chronicled the earliest imports into the West. Yet these early authors were adamant in their claims of royal protection, and they persisted with their assertions to a degree that suggests veracity. Certainly the Siamese we know and love was revered in its native land long before we knew of its existence. The translation into English in 1998 of the historic Thai Cat Poems or Tamra Maew (published in The Legend of Siamese Cats by Martin R. Clutterbuck) clearly describes a white cat with black ears, face, paws and tail known as Maew Kaew, or Wichien-maas. These poems are between 100 and 200 years old, but reflect a literary culture much older, and contain many illustrations from very old manuscripts.

It was largely the discovery of this one breed by the English well over a hundred years ago that provided the impetus for the world of cats we know today. A striking, contrasting color pattern on an elegant frame, all made dramatic by dark blue eyes, captured the imagination of cat lovers the world over. If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then the Siamese has the undisputed claim to the title of most beloved feline breed. It has been the inspiration, if not the primary genetic source, for many other breeds (Balinese, Colorpoint Shorthair, Javanese and Oriental), has figured in the creation of the Himalayan Persian and Tonkinese, and has served in the development and/or maintenance of the Burmese, Havana Brown, and Ocicat. The Siamese is a mainstay of the pedigreed cat world not only for its own distinct, intrinsic beauty, but also as an unsurpassed genetic wellspring to which many breeds owe their existence and, in some cases, continued well-being. The Siamese is, in short, a feline treasure.

Imported into England in the late 19th century and appearing in catalogues of the Crystal Palace Show as early as 1881, the Siamese at that time was recognized only in seal point. A description by Harrison Weir in Our Cats and All About Them (1889) of the ideal show specimen bears repeating:

The head should be long from ears to eyes, and not over broad, and then rather sharply taper off towards the muzzle, the forehead flat, and receding, the eyes somewhat aslant downwards towards the nose, and the eyes of a pearly, yet bright blue colour, the ears usual size and black with little or no hair on the inside, with black muzzle, and round the eyes black. The form should be slight, graceful and delicately made, body long, tail rather short and thin, and the legs somewhat short, slender, and the feet oval, not so round as the ordinary English cat. The body should be one bright, uniform, even colour, not clouded, either rich fawn, dun or ash. The legs, feet and tail black. The back slightly darker is allowable, if of a rich colour, and the colour softened, not clouded.

Always aware of the world around them and cognizant of the gorgeous cat being bred and promoted in England, American fanciers spared no expense in importing many beautiful examples of the breed quite early. Siamese are found in the Beresford Cat Club Stud Books in 1900, and the first Siamese was awarded Best Cat in Show in 1907. With characteristic charm, the breed vanquished this continent as thoroughly and decisively as it had captured the hearts of "Merry Old England." Classes became large; color classes expanded to four: seal point, blue point, chocolate point, and lilac point. CFA recognized the blue point in 1934, the chocolate point in 1952, and the lilac point in 1955, five years before the English did so. In this millennium year, the four Siamese colors will have been together on the CFA show bench for 45 years!

But it was in the years directly preceding and following the Second World War that the popularity of the Siamese soared, along with the burgeoning of the American cat fancy. Siamese and Persians dominated the show scene, with classes of well over a hundred Siamese being commonplace. Having fallen hopelessly in love with the Siamese color pattern, the consequence of a temperature-controlling enzyme that restricts color to the coolest parts of the body, the American public clamored for this glamorous pet. Overall quality suffered in the rush to supply this demand, resulting in a misconception of the breed that still lingers today. Cats with heavy boning, round heads and washed-out blue eyes began to appear in increasing numbers, a sure sign of mixed ancestry and indiscriminate breeding. Those who remember those frenetic times also recall the many poor examples of the breed on the show bench. As one judge has remarked, "Judging the Siamese classes was more of an exercise in stamina than anything else; good examples were relatively few and easily identified." The exotic structure of the Siamese was overlooked by the general public in the fascination with its paint job, and this misplaced focus has resulted in a widely-held notion that persists today in the so-called "Traditional Siamese." It has been with a sigh of relief that those who treasure the breed have welcomed today’s more secure place of the Siamese as a revered, popular breed among other favorite breeds of cats. Accordingly, Siamese to be found in cat shows at present are much more representative of the breed and consistent in type because they are exhibited by breeders dedicated to preserving the finest attributes of this ancient cat.

Without question the Siamese has evolved in type from its earliest beginnings, but the evolution has been consistent with the vision of generations of breeders all over the world whose cats echo the graceful elegance suggested in the earliest breed standards. Simply put, a Siamese is a living, breathing work of art that shuns a display shelf in favor of a lap! Long head, long body, long tail, long neck, long legs – everything about a Siamese is long with the exception of its short coat; a state of affairs which accentuates the body lines and underscores the porcelain-like quality of its visual image. A tubular body, large ears, and fine bones contribute to this exquisite refinement of type. The long, wedge-shaped head graced by large ears that complete that triangle, straight profile, and lovely almond-shaped eyes contribute to a unique expression of feline beauty. When color contrast is excellent and correct, body color even and clear, and the eyes a gorgeous deep blue, the resulting Siamese belongs in that "takes your breath away" category of all riveting great art.

An indication of successful, lengthy domestication of any animal can be found in a high level of communication with and affection for human beings. This is especially true of felines, a naturally independent species. No breed surpasses the Siamese in its ability to communicate and in its love for human beings. Whether it is by vocalizing or by body language, the Siamese is determined to communicate. The degree to which they are talkative depends a good deal on the amount of conversation that is directed their way. In addition, they tend to be vocal in direct proportion to the desired end, always demanding the last word!

Siamese do not tolerate isolation (or being ignored) well; they want to be a part of their owners’ lives, as they hold firmly to the belief that they are man’s best friend. (They play fetch exceedingly well, and have the distinct virtue of returning the thrown object to your lap instead of your feet!) They are in one’s lap, on one’s newspaper, in one’s bed, and completely in one’s heart. There is no better companion cat than "The Royal Cat of Siam."

A famous author once said, "A rose is a rose is a rose." It is no stretch of the truth to paraphrase Gertrude Stein by affirming: "A Siamese is a Siamese is a Siamese."

References

1. Boren, C: History of the Siamese. The Cat Fanciers’ Association Yearbook. Eatontown, NJ, 1959. pp 23-32.

2. Boren, C: History of the Siamese. The Cat Fanciers’ Association Yearbook. Eatontown, NJ, 1960. pp 59-70.

3. Boren, C: History of the Siamese. The Cat Fanciers’ Association Yearbook. Eatontown, NJ, 1961. pp 71-78.

4. Boren, C: History of the Siamese. The Cat Fanciers’ Association Yearbook. Eatontown, NJ, 1962. pp 105-122.

5. Clutterbuck, MR: The Legend of Siamese Cats. White Lotus Co., Ltd., Bangkok, 1998.

6. Denlinger, M: The Complete Siamese Cat. Denlinger’s, Richmond, VA, 1952.

7. Jennings, J: Domestic or Fancy Cats. London, 1893.

8. Naples, M: This Is the Siamese Cat. T.F.H. Publications, Inc. Ltd., 1964.

9. Simmons, EB: Cats. Whittlesey House, McGraw-Hill Book Co., Inc., London, 1935.

10. Simpson F: Cats and All About Them. London, 1902.

11. Weir, H: Our Cats and All About Them. London, 1889.

12. White, B: The Siamese. Cat Fancy. Feb. 1996. pp 32-33.

13. White, B: We Are Siamese…Yesterday, Today & Tomorrow, Part 1. The Cat Fanciers’ Association Yearbook. Ocean, NJ, 1987. pp 658-665.

14. White, B: We Are Siamese…Yesterday, Today & Tomorrow, Part 2. The Cat Fanciers’ Association Yearbook. Ocean, NJ, 1988. pp 178-185.

Credit : by Betty White Cat Fanciers' Almanac, November 2000 (cfa)

Cleaning cat urine stains

Assuming there is no medical problem with your cat, cats urinate where they are not supposed to for many reasons. Some common reasons are;

- The litter box is too dirty and/or the litter box has a cover and keeps the smell in.
- The litter box is in a non private area.
- The cat is part of a multi-cat household and requires its own litter box.
- Another common reason is the behavioral tendency to mark territory with urine. This is especially true of cats that have not been spayed or neutered.

The key to getting rid of the strong smell of cat urine is to completely get rid of the smell from the cat's perspective. A cat's nose is much more sensitive than the human nose. When we think we have cleaned the cat urine and removed the smell completely, the cat may still smell where he/she urinated. This is a problem since cats like to urinate where they have urinated before.

Don't just use any household product to get rid of the smell. There are many products available from pet stores that can get rid of the smell completely. The best products contain enzymes and they will neutralize the smell. Getting the urine and smell off the floor is easy enough, but off the carpet requires a gentle technique. Don't scrub the carpet as you will push the urine deeper into the carpet fibres. Blot it gently, and follow the strict directions on the bottle.

Credit : www.pets.ca

Vaccination and Health page 5

Worm Wrap-Up: A Primer on Common Pet Parasites




Intestinal parasites, or worms, are a plague to both dogs and cats. Most pets will harbor worms at some point in their lifetime. Puppies and kittens have a high incidence of intestinal parasites, and most receive de-worming treatment as part of their routine care. Roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms are the most common culprits of these infections.

"Roundworms are the most common intestinal parasite infecting dogs. Cats can get roundworms too, but it is not as prevalent," says Dr. Allan Paul, a veterinary parasitologist at the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine in Urbana.

Roundworms are spread when animals eat feces or soil contaminated with roundworm eggs. Mothers can also infect puppies through the placenta. Roundworms are spread to kittens through their mother's milk. Adult roundworms set up shop in the intestine and live off ingested food. They multiply rapidly; one female can lay up to 200,000 eggs per day!

Diarrhea and vomiting, leading to dehydration, are commonly seen with roundworms. Infected puppies have a distinct potbelly appearance. Adults are not seriously affected by roundworms. Puppies and kittens can become quite sick; they are more sensitive to dehydration.

"The warm temperatures of spring and summer are ideal for roundworm eggs to become actively infectious. Roundworm eggs are hardy. They are resistant to environmental changes and can remain alive outside for many years. There are no chemicals that effectively kill them. Live flame kills roundworm eggs, but most people are against torching their backyard!" says Dr. Paul.

Hookworms are also a problem for dogs and cats. These worms hook themselves to the intestinal wall and feed on blood. They are acquired by adults through skin penetration and ingestion of larvae. Puppies and kittens can be infected across the placenta and through milk.

Blood loss is the worst consequence of hookworms. Severe anemia--a decrease in red blood cells--is the result of extensive blood loss. Hookworms feed at several sites in the intestine. They release an anti-coagulant so clotting does not occur. The feeding sites continue to bleed after the worm moves on, and the result is a black, tarry stool. Bacteria can invade the body through these open wounds and cause infection.

Whipworms are a problem in the canine world, but cats do not become infected. "Whipworm eggs are tough organisms. They can survive adverse environmental conditions and are extremely resistant to drying," says Dr. Paul.

Adult whipworms live in the large intestine and eat blood meals by attaching to the intestinal lining. The worms' eggs are passed in the feces. They can cause inflammation, anemia, and weight loss. Whipworms are a common cause of bloody diarrhea in dogs.

Veterinarians diagnose worms by taking a fecal sample and identifying any eggs found there. Consult with your veterinarian on how often feces should be screened for worms.

The good news is it is easy to get rid of worms with medication. Your veterinarian has de-wormers that should clear up the problem in a few weeks. Re-checking the feces is important to make sure all worms have been eliminated. To prevent or control intestinal parasites, consult your local veterinarian.


Credit :

Author: Amanda Barth
University of Illinois, College of Veterinary Medicine
Source: Dr. Allan Paul

Vaccination and Health page 4

Kitten Health Care





Kitten, like infants, are born totally helpless. During their first weeks of life they depend not just on their mother’s care, but also on their owner. With care and patience, you can ensure that your kitten will mature into a healthy, contented adult.

Birth

At birth, kittens must be kept warm and away from drafts. They spend most of their time nursing or sleeping. In the second week, their eyes will open and begin to focus clearly. During the third and fourth weeks kittens cut their baby teeth, they will start to play and toddle around on wobbly legs. At eight weeks they need attention from people to develop good social behavior, they should be picked up, spoken softly, should be weaned and have a healthy appetite for solid food.

Medical Care

At this critical time, kittens lose the antibodies provided by the mother’s milk; they are very susceptible to colds or digestive upsets and should be vaccinated promptly. It is essential to take your kitten for a complete veterinary examination within a few days of purchasing, the kitten must be immunized against such illness as rabies, parvovirus, and distemper, and also be checked for heartworms. Click here for the schedule of vaccines.

Kitten Diet

Kittens require high-protein, high-calorie food two or three times daily. However, do not overfeed. As they grow into adulthood, you can decrease the number of meals per day. Serve food at room temperature and always provide clean, fresh water. Ask your veterinarian for the best-recommended diet for your cat. Attach a personal identification tag with your name, address, and telephone number on its collar.

Litter-Box Training

Mother cats usually teach kittens to use the litter box, but you can reinforce this training by placing the kitten in the box after feeding or playing. Repeat this several times until the kitten catches on.

Spaying and Neutering

Ask your veterinarian for the best time to spay or neuter your pet. The following are general recommendations:

Females should be spayed before their first heat cycle to reduce population and the risk of breast cancer and uterine infection.
Males should be neutered at around six months to reduce population, territorialism and aggression, as well as the risk of testicular cancer and prostate disease.


Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com

Vaccination and Health page 3

Cat Emergencies




Basic First Aid

An injured cat is frightened and in pain. It may be uncooperative or be so frantic that it will attempt to bite or scratch, so wrap it in blankets, or provide other restraining measures that can prevent further injury. Timely action may be vital. It is wise to have a book on pet first aid on hand. Always keep a simple first-aid kit for pets in your home which contains bandages, tape, scissors, a blanket for restraint, and simple medications such as milk of magnesia (antacid laxative); hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting; antibiotic ointments for the eyes and skin; milk of bismuth (antidiarrheal) and mineral oil. Know the location of the nearest veterinary hospital.

Heat Stroke

If the cat is confined to a poorly ventilated car or pen or is exposed to the summer sun for long periods, it can get heat stroke, causing it to become frantic, unconscious, or groggy and gasping for breath. Remove the cat from the overheated place at once and immediately wet it thoroughly with water. Rapid cooling is vital. After this treatment, take the cat promptly to a hospital.

Poisoning

Cats are commonly poisoned because they groom themselves constantly and can ingest toxic substances picked up on their feet or fur. Do not use solvents that are toxic, such as turpentine, gasoline, or kerosene. It is best to let the material harden on the hair and then cut the hair off; it will soon grow back. Cats also like to eat leaves from house plants, but you should try to prevent this because some, like poinsettia, are highly toxic. In cases of suspected poisoning, always seek veterinary advice promptly.

Hair Balls

When cats groom themselves they swallow hair, which can accumulate in the stomach and intestines, causing the cat to vomit. Adding a teaspoonful of mineral oil to the cat’s food three days in a row helps compact mats of hair in the stomach and facilitates passage through the intestines. Then give the cat one to two teaspoonfuls of milk of magnesia on the fourth day to speed the recovery process. If your cat swallows a small object, it will usually pass safely through the intestinal tract and appear in the stool. To facilitate passage of sharp objects such as a needle, feed your cat small pads of cotton soaked in milk. They will surround the needle and escort it on its journey.

Bleeding

Bleeding can be controlled by a firm pressure bandage. Pull a clean sock on to the leg or wrap the cut area with a washcloth or layers of paper towels. Then wrap a bandage firmly over the sock or cloth. Start wrapping at the foot and continue up the leg in a spiral, going above the area of the cut. Transport the cat to a hospital.

Removing Thorns

Deeply embedded thorns and fishhooks require veterinary help, since anesthesia will be necessary. If a fishhook is superficially embedded, try to push the hook through, then cut the barbed end with cutting pliers and back the hook out. Remove a thorn with tweezers and/or a sewing needle. Puncture wounds are always infected, so treatment is necessary.

Bone Fractures

If a cat falls from a great height or is hit by a car, it will probably have broken bones and be in shock. If its leg is fractured, immobilize the cat, wrap the leg in layers of towels or newspapers, holding them in place with a cord. Animals with severe injuries are always in shock, so they must be wrapped in towels or blankets to conserve heat (even in warm weather) and promptly taken to a hospital.

Transporting Injured Cats

To move an injured cat, grasp it by the skin of the neck and by the skin of the rump near the tail. Then gently slide it onto a blanket or cardboard box. Pull the cat on the blanket along the ground so that it is moved with the legs trailing behind. Avoid bending the legs or backbone. Wrap blankets around the cat in the box to keep it warm and make it comfortable. A closed box or pillow case may have a calming effect. Then carefully lift the box into the car. If the cat is conscious, keep talking to it quietly reassure it.


Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com

Vaccination and Health page 2

Cat Health.

Many cat dieases and ailments are not at all serious. Like people, cats are subject to several treatable maladies as well as health conditions that can be managed with medication. To help you evaluate the seriousness of a problem we have developed the following chart, rating common health problems in four categories: treatable ailments, manageable conditions, problems that can be corrected with surgery, and serious problems.

Body Malformations

Cleft palates
Face and head abnormalities
Kinked tails
Malformed jaws
Flattened chest (pectus excavatum)

Bone Problems

Crippling arthritis
Spinal deformities (spina bifida)

Circulatory Problems

Anemia
Heart defects
Cardiomypaphy

Ears - Hearing Problems
Deafness

Eyes and Seeing Problems

Cataracs (rare)
Clogged tear ducts
Entropion
Glaucoma (rare)
Lens luxation
Malformed tear ducts
Ocular dermoids
Retinal dysplasia (rare)
Tearing problems

Respiratory Problems

Breathing difficulties, short face
Chronic sinus problems
Nasal obstruction
Upper respiratory infections

Skin Problems

Allergic skin disease
Alopecia
Bacterial skin disease (rare)
Cysts
Seborrhic skin disorder (rare)
Skin acne

Other Health Problem

Urinary incontinence


Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com

Vaccination and Health page 1

Cat Vaccination and Health Care Schedule

Cats require vaccinations for the diseases listed below. For rabies, some states require annual revaccinations or revaccinations from 1 to 3 years. The exact schedule may vary depending on the type of vaccines used or your cat’s exposure to potential diseases.

8 weeks.

- Pneumonitis
- Distemper vaccine
- Intestinal parasite screen
- Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)

8 to 10 weeks.

- Calcivirus
- Feline Leukemia Virus/FIV test
- Feline Leukemia vaccine (only for cats at high risk)
- Panleucopia
- Rhinotracheitis
- Distemper vaccine
- Intestinal parasite screen
- Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)

12 to 14 weeks.

- Calcivirus
- Feline Leukemia Virus
- Panleucopenia
- Rhinotracheitis
- Distemper vaccine

2 to 4 months.

- Feline Lukemia Virus

1 year.

- One-year Rabies vaccine
- Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)
- Feline Leukemia vaccine (only for cats at high risk)

Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com

Heal fungus in cat

Use pink a medicine that heal fungus of a person. wash at the skin of area cat. where is by still must not take a bath 1 before time abandon to keep about 15 minute. from that time lead a cat goes to take a bath pink with a cat normally. and bathe with pink a medicine repairs fungus in bathing finlly again.

use blow carry drily. may sprinkle child powder down on a cat the fustiness has been damp then use the cloth wipes powder that follows to carry go out protect a cat licks powder enters. take a bath with pink a medicine repairs fungus 3 every day. make be lost fast.

Cat Hairball

For countless cat owners around the world, the topic of hairballs is something they would rather not discuss, let alone deal with. However, deal with it they must, as cat hairballs are a fact of life for most cats and their owners. Everything about hairballs is gross, there is no doubt about that from the hacking, coughing and vomiting that a cat goes through to produce one, to the wet, sticky, smelling mess that is often stepped on by the unsuspecting owner in the middle of the night. So what is one to do about this unfortunate part of cat ownership? Prevention.

Prevention of cat hairballs is the key to eliminating it from your life, if not forever, at least for the majority of the time. Before you can prevent a hairball, you need to understand how they come into being. As everyone knows, cats are fastidious about grooming. This is their downfall when it comes to hairballs. Hairballs are made up of all of the tiny hairs that the cat swallows while grooming. Since hair is very hard to digest, it sits in the intestines and causes a blockage. Soon it will be hard for food and water to get through the mass of hair, this will in turn cause the cat to have constipation, coughing spells after meals and eventually to produce the ever dreaded hairball.

Given the fact that cats are so particular about grooming, many of them take kindly to being brushed. Brushing your cat on a regular basis, at least once a week will greatly reduce the amount of fur that is ingested. It also has the added benefit of less hair on your furniture. While a good grooming regimen is a good place to start, it is not the only option that you have to prevent the appearance of hairballs.

Another avenue that should be explored when attempting to prevent cat hairballs is the food that the cat eats. A number of cat food manufacturers are targeting this issue. They recognize that pet owners are looking for a way to help that fits into the daily schedule. These foods have additives, extra oils and lubricants that help the body to naturally pass the hair through the intestines. While this method does work, it takes time for the body to process the extra ingredients properly.

A quicker method on the same premise is a lubricant that is fed to the cat as a treat or that is sprinkled onto the food. These will work quickly to help the intestines move the hair through the body, thereby preventing the dreaded hairball. One note of caution, always follow the recommended dosage and usage on the label. Many of these treatments will contain some form of mineral oil, when used too frequently, can cause a depletion in vitamin A. As always, if you have any questions, please consult your veterinarian.

Another, less expensive alternative is to give your cat a touch of butter, baby squash or canned pumpkin, generally, a ½ teaspoon every other day will be enough. This will act as a natural lubricant for the digestive tract.

Cat Breeds

Colorpoint Shorthair



Cornish Rex



Devon Rex



Egyptian Mau



European Burmese



Exotic



Havana Brown



Japanese Bobtail



Javanese



Korat



LaPerm



Maine Coon



Manx



Norwegian Forest Cat



Ocicat



Oriental



Persian



Ragdoll



Russian Blue



Scottish Fold



Selkirk Rex



Siamese



Siberian



Singapura



Somali



Sphynx



Tonkinese



Turkish Angora



Turkish Van



Credit : Photo from chanan , Helni

Breed Persian

As the dusty desert caravans wound their way westward from Persia and Iran, it is supposed that secreted among the rare spices and jewels on the basket-laden camels was an even more precious cargo, an occasional longhair cat. They were called Persian for their "country of origin," but hieroglyphic references as early as 1684 B.C. shroud forever their exact beginnings.

Persians, with their long flowing coats and open pansy-like faces are the number one breed in popularity. Their sweet, gentle, personalities blend into most households once they feel secure in their new environment. Creatures of habit, they are most at home in an atmosphere of security and serenity, but with love and reassurance, can easily adapt to the most boisterous of households. Their quiet, melodious voices are pleasant and non-abrasive. They communicate delightfully with their large expressive eyes and make charming pets for all ages. Persians have short heavily-boned legs to support their broad, short bodies. They like to have their feet firmly planted and are not given to high jumping and climbing. Playful but never demanding, they love to pose and will drape themselves in a favorite window or chair, enhancing the decor in much the same way as a treasured painting. Persians are tremendously responsive and become a constant source of joy and delight to their owners. Pleasurable as an unexpected sunbeam, their companionship is close and enduring.

Their long flowing coats require an indoor, protected environment. Proper maintenance requires a daily run-through with a metal comb to eliminate the potential drawbacks of tangles and hairballs. An occasional bath, attempted only after a complete comb-through and clipping of the nail tips, will keep the coat clean, healthy and beautiful. It is wise to establish the routine of the bath when they are young. While the white Persian has long been the darling of photographers and advertisers, Persians come in an astonishing number of colors, which are divided into seven color divisions for purposes of competition. Those are:

Solid Color Division
Silver and Golden Division
Shaded and Smoke Division
Tabby Division
Particolor Division
Bicolor Division
Himalayan Division

Keeping the Persian indoors also keeps it safe from transmission of disease and parasites, as well as the dangers of urban life. With an annual trip to a trusted veterinarian, and good nutrition and care, the Persian can live as a family member for easily 15 years, and some surpassing 20 years. Persian breeders dedicate themselves to breeding healthy cats, availing themselves of the latest in veterinary screening procedures to test for any heritable disease conditions. A well-bred Persian is a hardy and healthy cat and is not more prone to illness and respiratory infections than other breeds. However, the large eyes do mean that a certain amount of tearing is normal, and a daily face wash is recommended.

Pricing on Persians usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National, National Breed and/or Regional winning parentage (NW, BW, RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

Credit : Jeanie McPhee , Photo : Chanan Best of Breed GC, BW, NW MELOSITOS WHITE OWL OF D'EDEN LOVER, Copper-Eyed White Persian Male (http://www.cfa.org/)

Cat teeth

For most cat owners, the cats' happiness and health are a top priority. People spend millions of dollars every year on food, toys, treats, even clothes for their pets. Money is spent on training, grooming and medical care, but, unfortunately, many pet owners and especially cat owners do not know the importance of having healthy teeth.

Because of this unintentional oversight, over 80% of pets have dental issues after the age of three. These issues include tartar build up, broken teeth, gum diseases and bad breath. All of these problems will eventually lead to teeth falling out, the inability to eat and, therefore, a very unhappy and unhealthy cat.

Dental issues can and will lead to symptoms that go beyond the mouth. Dental disease affects the kidneys and the heart, as well as the intestinal tract and even the joints can be affected. The reason for this is because the buildup of bacteria in the mouth can cause infections to grown in the other areas of the body. These are side effects that can be prevented with regular preventative dental care.

So, how do you prevent dental problems for your cat? There are products on the market today that address this very issue, everything from specially formulated foods to toys, even kitty toothbrushes and toothpaste. These items are the best defense that you and your cat have against dental disease and everything that accompanies it.

Now that you have gone to the pet store and purchased all of the necessary items to keep your cats teeth healthy, where do you start? As any cat lover will tell you, a cat does not take kindly to being forced to do something that they do not like. Therefore, you must find a way that is acceptable to both you and the cat. This means starting slow and offering lots of loving and even treats. While this may sound counter productive, offering a cat treats after a teeth brushing session will give the cat the idea that there is a reward when they are done.

Obviously, brushing your cat’s teeth on a regular basis is easier if you start the routine with a kitten. But, that doesn’t mean that an older cat can’t be introduced to good dental habits. With a cat, the actual act of brushing the teeth isn’t as important as it may seem, rubbing the teeth is actually the preferred method among veterinarians. This rubbing action is effortlessly accomplished either by wrapping your finger with gauze and rubbing it on the teeth or simply by letting the cat chew on the kitty toothbrush. This will knock off most of the plaque and tarter before it can cause problems.

After a while your cat should be willing to accept teeth brushing. Here is the way you can go about it. Hold the toothbrush at a 45-degree angle and apply it to the area where your cat's teeth and gums meet. Rotate the brush in small circles, overlapping several teeth. Finish with vertical strokes to pull plaque from between the teeth. Repeat until all the teeth on your feline's cheek side are clean. The inside teeth will be more difficult, as your pet may resist opening its mouth, but eventually you may be able to brush the inside and outside surfaces of all the teeth. For effective cleaning, brush your pet's teeth a couple of times a week.

If, after time, your pet does not accept home brushing or if you already see ugly brown tartar stains on its teeth or there is evidence of bleeding gums, it's time to turn to your veterinarian for help. They will give your pet general anesthesia and then clean its teeth above and below the gum line to remove plaque and tartar. After your cat's teeth are cleaned, they will be polished to remove microscopic plaque and to make the teeth smooth to discourage plaque from clinging.

No doubt, dental care is as important to your pet and his well being as it is to you. Your kitty needs to be cared for so provide it with regular tooth care and cleaning. With a little time and effort on your part, your cat’s teeth will last a lifetime.

Breed Standard Persian

GENERAL: the ideal Persian should present an impression of a heavily boned, well-balanced cat with a sweet expression and soft, round lines. The large round eyes set wide apart in a large round head contribute to the overall look and expression. The long thick coat softens the lines of the cat and accentuates the roundness in appearance.

HEAD: round and massive, with great breadth of skull. Round face with round underlying bone structure. Well set on a short, thick neck. Skull structure to be smooth and round to the touch and not unduly exaggerated from where the forehead begins at the top of the break to the back of the head, as well as across the breadth between the ears. When viewed in profile, the prominence of the eyes is apparent and the forehead, nose, and chin appear to be in vertical alignment.

NOSE: short, snub, and broad, with "break" centered between the eyes.

CHEEKS: full. Muzzle not overly pronounced, smoothing nicely into the cheeks.

JAWS: broad and powerful.

CHIN: full, well-developed, and firmly rounded, reflecting a proper bite.

EARS: small, round tipped, tilted forward, and not unduly open at the base. Set far apart, and low on the head, fitting into (without distorting) the rounded contour of the head.

EYES: brilliant in color, large, round, and full. Set level and far apart, giving a sweet expression to the face.

BODY: of cobby type, low on the legs, broad and deep through the chest, equally massive across the shoulders and rump, with a well-rounded mid-section and level back. Good muscle tone with no evidence of obesity. Large or medium in size. Quality the determining consideration rather than size.

LEGS: short, thick, and strong. Forelegs straight. Hind legs are straight when viewed from behind.

PAWS: large, round, and firm. Toes carried close, five in front and four behind .

TAIL: short, but in proportion to body length. Carried without a curve and at an angle lower than the back.

COAT: long and thick, standing off from the body. Of fine texture, glossy and full of life. Long all over the body, including the shoulders. The ruff immense and continuing in a deep frill between the front legs. Ear and toe tufts long. Brush very full.

DISQUALIFY: locket or button. Kinked or abnormal tail. Incorrect number of toes. Any apparent weakness in the hind quarters. Any apparent deformity of the spine. Deformity of the skull resulting in an asymmetrical face and/or head. Crossed eyes. For pointed cats, also disqualify for white toes, eye color other than blue.*


Solid Color Division Colors

WHITE: pure glistening white. Nose leather and paw pads: pink. Eye color: deep blue or brilliant copper. Odd-eyed whites shall have one blue and one copper eye with equal color depth.

BLUE: blue, lighter shade preferred, one level tone from nose to tip of tail. Sound to the roots. A sound darker shade is more acceptable than an unsound lighter shade. Nose leather and paw pads: blue. Eye color: brilliant copper.

BLACK: dense coal black, sound from roots to tip of fur. Free from any tinge of rust on tips or smoke undercoat. Nose leather: black. Paw pads: black or brown. Eye color: brilliant copper.

RED: deep, rich, clear, brilliant red; without shading, markings, or ticking. Lips and chin the same color as coat. Nose leather and paw pads: brick red. Eye color: brilliant copper.

CREAM: one level shade of buff cream, without markings. Sound to the roots. Lighter shades preferred. Nose leather and paw pads: pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

CHOCOLATE: rich, warm chocolate-brown, sound from roots to tip of fur. Nose leather: brown. Paw pads: cinnamon-pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

LILAC: rich, warm lavender with a pinkish tone, sound and even throughout. Nose leather: lavender. Paw pads: pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.


Silver and Golden Division Colors

CHINCHILLA SILVER: undercoat pure white. Coat on back, flanks, head, and tail sufficiently tipped with black to give the characteristic sparkling silver appearance. Legs may be slightly shaded with tipping. Chin, ear tufts, stomach, and chest, pure white. Rims of eyes, lips, and nose outlined with black. Nose leather: brick red. Paw pads: black. Eye color: green or blue-green. Disqualify for incorrect eye color, incorrect eye color being copper, yellow, gold, amber, or any color other than green or blue-green.

SHADED SILVER: undercoat white with a mantle of black tipping shading down from sides, face, and tail from dark on the ridge to white on the chin, chest, stomach, and under the tail. Legs to be the same tone as the face. The general effect to be much darker than a chinchilla. Rims of eyes, lips, and nose outlined with black. Nose leather: brick red. Paw pads: black. Eye color: green or blue-green. Disqualify for incorrect eye color, incorrect eye color being copper, yellow, gold, amber, or any color other than green or blue-green.

CHINCHILLA GOLDEN: undercoat pale honey to bright apricot. Coat on back, flanks, head, and tail sufficiently tipped with black to enhance a golden appearance. Legs and end of tail may be shaded with tipping. Chin, ear tufts, stomach, and chest, consistent dilute color, much lighter in tone than the undercoat color. The general effect is lighter than a shaded golden due to less tipping. Rims of eyes, lips, and nose outlined with black. Nose leather: rose. Paw pads: black. Eye color: green or blue-green. Disqualify for incorrect eye color, incorrect eye color being copper, yellow, gold, amber, or any color other than green or blue-green.

SHADED GOLDEN: undercoat pale honey to bright apricot with a mantle of black tipping shading down from the sides, face, head and tail. Legs to be the same tone as the face. Ear tufts, chin, chest, stomach and underside of the tail, consistent dilute color, much lighter in tone than the undercoat. The general effect is darker than a chinchilla golden due to more tipping. Rims of eyes, lips, and nose outlined with black. Nose leather: rose. Paw pads: black. Eye color: green or blue-green. Disqualify for incorrect eye color, incorrect eye color being copper, yellow, gold, amber, or any color other than green or blue-green.


Shaded and Smoke Division Colors

SHELL CAMEO (Red Chinchilla): undercoat white, the coat on the back, flanks, head and tail to be lightly tipped with red. Face and legs may be lightly shaded with tipping. Frill, ear tufts, stomach and chest, white. Nose leather, rim of eyes and paw pads: rose pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

SHADED CAMEO (Red Shaded): undercoat white with a mantle of red shading down the sides, face and tail. Frill, ear tufts, stomach and chest, white. Face and legs may be a deeper shading. The general effect to be much redder than the shell cameo. Nose leather, rims of eyes and paw pads: rose pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

SHELL CREAM (Cream Chinchilla): undercoat white, the coat on the back, flanks, head and tail to be lightly tipped with cream. Face and legs may be lightly shaded with tipping. Frill, ear tufts, stomach and chest, white. Nose leather, rims of eyes and paw pads: rose pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

SHADED CREAM (Cream Shaded): undercoat white with a mantle of cream shading down the sides, face and tail. Frill, ear tufts, stomach and chest, white. Face and legs may be a deeper shading. The general effect to be darker than a shell cream. Nose leather, rims of eyes and paw pads: rose pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

SHELL TORTOISESHELL: undercoat white. The coat on the back, flanks and tail to be lightly tipped with black and shades of red. Face and legs may be lightly shaded with tipping. Frill, ear tufts, stomach and chest, white to lightly tipped. Nose leather, rims of eyes and paw pads: rose pink to black, may be patched. Eye color: brilliant copper.

SHADED TORTOISESHELL: undercoat white. Mantle of black and red shading down the sides, face and tail. Frill, ear tufts, stomach and chest, white to lightly tipped. The general effect to be much darker than the shell tortoiseshell. Nose leather, rims of eyes and paw pads: rose pink to black, may be patched. Eye color: brilliant copper.

SHELL BLUE-CREAM: undercoat white. The coat on the back, flanks and tail to be lightly tipped with blue and cream. Face and legs may be lightly shaded with tipping. Frill, ear tufts, stomach and chest, white to lightly tipped. Nose leather, rims of eyes and paw pads: rose pink to blue, may be patched. Eye color: brilliant copper.

SHADED BLUE-CREAM: undercoat white. Mantle of blue and cream shading down the sides, face and tail. Frill, ear tufts, stomach and chest, white to lightly tipped. The general effect to be much darker than the shell blue-cream. Nose leather, rims of eyes and paw pads: rose pink to blue, may be patched. Eye color: brilliant copper.

NOTE: during seasonal coat color changes on both kittens and adults, the "reverse" color on the kitten or adult is to be considered a NORMAL coat color change. At the root it may appear that the primary smoke color turns white a short distance up the hair shaft and then reverts back to the primary color. The tipping during this coat color phase may consume most of the hair shaft with only minimal white color deep in the coat.

BLACK SMOKE: undercoat white, deeply tipped with black. Cat in repose appears black. In motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent. Face, legs and tail, black with narrow band of white at base of hairs next to skin which may be seen only when fur is parted. White frill and ear tufts. Nose leather and paw pads: black. Eye color: brilliant copper.

BLUE SMOKE: undercoat white, deeply tipped with blue. Cat in repose appears blue. In motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent. Face, legs and tail, blue with narrow band of white at base of hairs next to skin which may be seen only when fur is parted. White frill and ear tufts. Nose leather and paw pads: blue. Eye color: brilliant copper.

CREAM SMOKE: undercoat white, deeply tipped with cream. Cat in repose appears cream. In motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent. Face, legs and tail, cream with narrow band of white at base of hairs next to skin which may be seen only when fur is parted. White frill and ear tufts. Nose leather and paw pads: pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

RED SMOKE: undercoat white, deeply tipped with red. Cat in repose appears red. In motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent. Face, legs and tail, red with narrow band of white at base of hairs next to skin which may only be seen when hair is parted. White frill and ear tufts. Nose leather, rims of eyes and paw pads: rose. Eye color: brilliant copper.

TORTOISESHELL SMOKE: white undercoat, deeply tipped with black, red and shades of red. Cat in repose appears tortoiseshell. In motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent. Face, legs and tail, tortoiseshell pattern with narrow band of white at base of hairs next to skin which may only be seen when hair is parted. White frill and ear tufts. Nose leather and paw pads: rose pink or black, may be patched. Eye color: brilliant copper.

BLUE-CREAM SMOKE: white undercoat, deeply tipped with blue and cream. Cat in repose appears blue-cream. In motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent. Face, legs and tail, blue-cream pattern with narrow band of white at base of hairs next to skin which may only be seen when hair is parted. White frill and ear tufts. Nose leather and paw pads: rose pink or blue, may be patched. Eye color: brilliant copper.


Tabby Division Colors

CLASSIC TABBY PATTERN: markings dense, clearly defined, and broad. Legs evenly barred with bracelets coming up to meet the body markings. Tail evenly ringed. Several unbroken necklaces on neck and upper chest, the more the better. Frown marks on forehead form an intricate letter "M." Unbroken line runs back from outer corner of eye. Swirls on cheeks. Vertical lines over back of head extend to shoulder markings which are in the shape of a butterfly with both upper and lower wings distinctly outlined and marked with dots inside outline. Back markings consist of a vertical line down the spine from butterfly to tail with a vertical stripe paralleling it on each side, the three stripes well separated by stripes of the ground color. Large solid blotch on each side to be encircled by one or more unbroken rings. Side markings should be the same on both sides. Double vertical rows of buttons on chest and stomach.

MACKEREL TABBY PATTERN: markings dense, clearly defined, and all narrow pencillings. Legs evenly barred with narrow bracelets coming up to meet the body markings. Tail barred. Necklaces on neck and chest distinct, like so many chains. Head barred with an "M" on the forehead. Unbroken lines running back from the eyes. Lines running down the head to meet the shoulders. Spine lines run together to form a narrow saddle. Narrow pencillings run around body.

SILVER TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color pale, clear silver. Markings dense black. Undercoat white. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Nose leather: brick red. Paw pads: black. Eye color: green, hazel, or brilliant copper.

SILVER PATCHED TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color pale silver. Markings of dense black. Patches of red or softly intermingled areas of red on both body and extremities. Undercoat white. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Nose leather: brick red. Paw pads: black and/or brick red. Eye color: green, hazel, or brilliant copper.

BLUE-SILVER TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color pale bluish silver. Markings sound blue. Undercoat white. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Nose leather: blue or old rose trimmed with blue. Paw pads: blue or old rose. Eye color: green, hazel, or brilliant copper.

BLUE-SILVER PATCHED TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color pale bluish silver. Markings sound blue. Patches of cream or softly intermingled areas of cream on both body and extremities. Undercoat white. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Nose leather: blue or old rose trimmed with blue and/or pink. Paw pads: blue or old rose and/or pink. Eye color: green, hazel or brilliant copper.

RED TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color red. Markings deep, rich red. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Nose leather and paw pads: brick red. Eye color: brilliant copper.

BROWN TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color brilliant coppery brown. Markings dense black. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Back of leg black from paw to heel. Nose leather: brick red. Paw pads: black or brown. Eye color: brilliant copper.

BROWN PATCHED TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color brilliant coppery brown. Markings of dense black. Patches of red or softly intermingled areas of red on both body and extremities. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Nose leather: brick red. Paw pads: black and/or brick red. Eye color: brilliant copper.

BLUE TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color, including lips and chin, pale bluish ivory. Markings a very deep blue affording a good contrast with ground color. Warm fawn overtones or patina over the whole. Nose leather: old rose. Paw pads: rose. Eye color: brilliant copper.

BLUE PATCHED TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color pale bluish ivory. Markings of very deep blue affording a good contrast with ground color. Patches of cream or softly intermingled areas of cream on both body and extremities. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Warm fawn overtones or patina over the whole. Nose leather: old rose and/or pink. Paw pads: rose and/or pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

CREAM TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color pale cream. Markings of buff or cream sufficiently darker than the ground color to afford good contrast, but remaining within the dilute color range. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Nose leather and paw pads: pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

CAMEO TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color off-white. Markings red. Undercoat white. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Nose leather and paw pads: pink. Eye Color: brilliant copper.

CREAM SILVER TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color off-white. Markings cream. Undercoat white. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Nose leather and paw pads: pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

CHOCOLATE TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color milk chocolate. Tabby markings a deep, dark chocolate affording sufficient contrast with ground color. Lips and chin the same shade as rings around the eyes. Nose leather: brown and/or brick red. Paw pads: brick red to cinnamon-pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

CHOCOLATE PATCHED TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color milk chocolate. Tabby markings a deep, dark chocolate affording sufficient contrast with ground color with patches or softly intermingled areas of red. Lips and chin the same color as rings around the eyes. Nose leather: brown, brick red and/or cinnamon pink. Paw pads: brick red, cinnamon pink and/or coral. Eye color: brilliant copper.

LILAC TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color pale frosty lavender with a pinkish patina. Tabby markings a darker lavender affording sufficient contrast with ground color. Lips and chin the same color as rings around the eyes. Nose leather: lavender. Paw pads: pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

LILAC PATCHED TABBY (classic, mackerel): ground color pale frosty lavender with a pinkish patina. Tabby markings a darker lavender affording sufficient contrast with ground color with patches or softly intermingled areas of cream. Lips and chin the same color as rings around the eyes. Nose leather: lavender and/or pink. Paw pads: lavender pink and or pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.


Parti-Color Division Colors

TORTOISESHELL: black with patches of red or softly intermingled areas of red on both body and extremities. Presence of several shades of red acceptable. Nose leather and paw pads: black and/or brick red. Eye color: brilliant copper.

BLUE-CREAM: blue with patches of cream or softly intermingled areas of cream on both body and extremities. Lighter shades preferred. Nose leather and paw pads: blue and/or pink. Eye color: brilliant copper.

CHOCOLATE TORTOISESHELL: rich, warm chocolate brown with patches of red or softly intermingled areas of red on both body and extremities. Presence of several shades of red acceptable. Nose leather: brown, brick red and/or pink. Paw pads: brick red, cinnamon pink and/or pink. Eye Color: brilliant copper.

LILAC-CREAM: rich, warm pinkish toned lavender with patches of cream or softly intermingled areas of cream on both body and extremities. Nose leather: lavender, lavender pink and/or pink. Paw pads: lavender pink and/or pink. Eye Color: brilliant copper.


Calico and Bi-Color Division Colors

EYE COLOR: brilliant copper, blue or odd-eyed, with noted exception. Odd-eyed bi-colors shall have one blue and one copper eye with equal color depth. EXCEPTION: silver tabby and white, silver patched tabby and white, blue silver tabby and white and blue silver patched tabby and white may also have green or hazel eye color. These colors in odd-eyed shall have one blue and one green, hazel or brilliant copper eye with equal color depth.

CALICO: a tri-color cat of black, red and white. The red and the black should appear as clear, unbrindled patches. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

DILUTE CALICO: a tri-color cat of blue, cream and white. The cream and the blue should appear as clear, unbrindled patches. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

CHOCOLATE CALICO: a tri-color cat of chocolate, red and white. The red and the chocolate should appear as clear, unbrindled patches. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

LILAC CALICO: A tri-color cat of lilac, cream and white. The lilac and the cream should appear as clear, unbrindled patches. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

BI-COLOR: black and white, blue and white, red and white, cream and white, chocolate and white, or lilac and white. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest, and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

CALICO SMOKE: a tri-color cat of black, red and white. The black and the red should appear as clear, unbrindled patches with a white undercoat. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

DILUTE CALICO SMOKE: a tri-color cat of blue, cream and white. The blue and the cream should appear as clear, unbrindled patches with a white undercoat. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

CHOCOLATE CALICO SMOKE: a tri-color cat of chocolate, red and white. The chocolate and the red should appear as clear, unbrindled patches with a white undercoat. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

LILAC CALICO SMOKE: a tri-color cat of lilac, cream and white. The lilac and the cream should appear as clear, unbrindled patches with a white undercoat. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

SHELL CAMEO AND WHITE, SHELL CREAM AND WHITE, SHELL CALICO, SHELL DILUTE CALICO, SHELL CHOCOLATE CALICO, SHELL LILAC CALICO: a bi-colored or tri-colored cat of white and colored portions, the colored portions of the cat to conform to the currently established shell color description. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

SHADED CAMEO AND WHITE, SHADED CREAM AND WHITE, SHADED CALICO, SHADED DILUTE CALICO, SHADED CHOCOLATE CALICO, SHADED LILAC CALICO: a bi-colored or tri-colored cat of white and colored portions, the colored portions of the cat to conform to the currently established shaded color description. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

RED TABBY AND WHITE (classic, mackerel): a cat of white and colored portions, the colored portions to conform to the currently established red tabby standard. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

BROWN TABBY AND WHITE (classic, mackerel): a cat of white and colored portions, the colored portions to conform to the currently established brown tabby standard. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

PATCHED TABBY AND WHITE (classic, mackerel): a cat of white and colored portions, the colored portions to conform to the currently established patched tabby color description. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.

OTHER TABBY AND WHITE (classic, mackerel): a cat of white and colored portions, the colored portions of the cat to conform to the currently established classic and mackerel color standards (with the exception of red, brown and patched tabby) color description. As a preferred minimum, the cat should have white feet, legs, undersides, chest and muzzle. Less white than this minimum should be penalized proportionately.


Himalayan Division Colors

HIMALAYAN (POINT) PATTERN: Body: clear color is preferred with subtle shading allowed. Allowance should be made for darker color in older cats but there must be a definite contrast between body color and point color. The points, consisting of ears, legs, feet, tail, and mask show the basic color of the cat. The ideal mask extends from above the eyes down through the chin and stretches beyond the eyes from side to side.

CHOCOLATE POINT: body ivory. Points milk-chocolate color, warm in tone. Nose leather and paw pads: cinnamon pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.
SEAL POINT: body even pale fawn to cream, warm in tone, shading gradually into lighter color on the stomach and chest. Points deep seal brown. Nose leather and paw pads: seal brown. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

LILAC POINT: body glacial white. Points frosty grey with pinkish tone. Nose leather and paw pads: lavender pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

BLUE POINT: body bluish white, cold in tone. Points blue. Nose leather and paw pads: slate blue. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

FLAME (Red) POINT: body creamy white. Points deep orange flame to deep red. Nose leather and paw pads: flesh to coral pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

CREAM POINT: body creamy white. Points buff cream. Nose leather and paw pads: flesh to coral pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

TORTIE POINT: body creamy white or pale fawn. Points seal with unbrindled patches of red and/or cream. Nose leather and paw pads: seal brown and/or coral pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

BLUE-CREAM POINT: body bluish white or creamy white. Points blue with patches of cream. Nose leather and paw pads: slate blue and/or pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

CHOCOLATE-TORTIE POINT: body ivory. Points chocolate with unbrindled patches of red and/or cream. Nose leather and paw pads: cinnamon pink and/or coral pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

LILAC-CREAM POINT: body glacial white. Points lilac with patches of cream. Nose leather and paw pads: lavender pink and/or pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

HIMALAYAN LYNX (POINT) PATTERN: Mask must be clearly lined with dark stripes, vertical and forming the classic "M" on the forehead; horizontal on the cheeks. The mask contains light rings around the eyes and dark spots on light whisker pads, clearly outlined in dark color edges. Inner ear light with ticking on outer ear. Markings dense, clearly defined and broad. Legs evenly barred with bracelets. Tail barred with lighter underside. No striping or mottling on body.

SEAL LYNX POINT: points beige-brown ticked with darker brown tabby markings. Body color pale cream to fawn, warm in tone. Nose leather: seal brown or brick red. Paw pads: seal brown. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

BLUE LYNX POINT: points light, silvery blue, ticked with darker blue tabby markings. Body color bluish white, cold in tone. Nose leather: blue or old rose. Paw pads: blue. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

FLAME (RED) LYNX POINT: points deep orange flame ticked with deep red tabby markings. Body color creamy white. Nose leather and paw pads: flesh to coral pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

CREAM LYNX POINT: points pale cream ticked with dark cream tabby markings. Body color creamy white, significantly lighter in tone than the points. Nose leather and paw pads: flesh to coral pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

TORTIE LYNX POINT: points beige-brown with dark brown tabby markings and patches of red. Body color creamy white or pale fawn. Nose leather and paw pads: seal brown, brick red and/or coral pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

BLUE-CREAM LYNX POINT: points blue with darker blue tabby markings and patches of cream. Body color bluish white, cold in tone. Nose leather and paw pads: blue, old rose and/or pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

CHOCOLATE LYNX POINT: points milk-chocolate ticked with darker chocolate tabby markings. Body color ivory. Nose leather and paw pads: cinnamon pink or coral pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

LILAC LYNX POINT: points pale frosty grey with pinkish tone ticked with darker lilac tabby markings. Body color glacial white. Nose leather and paw pads: lavender pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

CHOCOLATE-TORTIE LYNX POINT: points milk-chocolate ticked with darker chocolate tabby markings and patches of red. Body color ivory. Nose leather and paw pads: cinnamon pink and/or coral pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

LILAC-CREAM LYNX POINT: points pale frosty grey with pinkish tone ticked with darker lilac tabby markings and patches of cream. Body color glacial white. Nose leather and paw pads: lavender pink and/or coral pink. Eye color: deep vivid blue.

Credit : http://www.cfa.org/