Assuming there is no medical problem with your cat, cats urinate where they are not supposed to for many reasons. Some common reasons are;
- The litter box is too dirty and/or the litter box has a cover and keeps the smell in.
- The litter box is in a non private area.
- The cat is part of a multi-cat household and requires its own litter box.
- Another common reason is the behavioral tendency to mark territory with urine. This is especially true of cats that have not been spayed or neutered.
The key to getting rid of the strong smell of cat urine is to completely get rid of the smell from the cat's perspective. A cat's nose is much more sensitive than the human nose. When we think we have cleaned the cat urine and removed the smell completely, the cat may still smell where he/she urinated. This is a problem since cats like to urinate where they have urinated before.
Don't just use any household product to get rid of the smell. There are many products available from pet stores that can get rid of the smell completely. The best products contain enzymes and they will neutralize the smell. Getting the urine and smell off the floor is easy enough, but off the carpet requires a gentle technique. Don't scrub the carpet as you will push the urine deeper into the carpet fibres. Blot it gently, and follow the strict directions on the bottle.
Credit : www.pets.ca
Cat Breeds
2550-11-17
2550-11-12
Vaccination and Health page 5
Worm Wrap-Up: A Primer on Common Pet Parasites
Intestinal parasites, or worms, are a plague to both dogs and cats. Most pets will harbor worms at some point in their lifetime. Puppies and kittens have a high incidence of intestinal parasites, and most receive de-worming treatment as part of their routine care. Roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms are the most common culprits of these infections.
"Roundworms are the most common intestinal parasite infecting dogs. Cats can get roundworms too, but it is not as prevalent," says Dr. Allan Paul, a veterinary parasitologist at the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine in Urbana.
Roundworms are spread when animals eat feces or soil contaminated with roundworm eggs. Mothers can also infect puppies through the placenta. Roundworms are spread to kittens through their mother's milk. Adult roundworms set up shop in the intestine and live off ingested food. They multiply rapidly; one female can lay up to 200,000 eggs per day!
Diarrhea and vomiting, leading to dehydration, are commonly seen with roundworms. Infected puppies have a distinct potbelly appearance. Adults are not seriously affected by roundworms. Puppies and kittens can become quite sick; they are more sensitive to dehydration.
"The warm temperatures of spring and summer are ideal for roundworm eggs to become actively infectious. Roundworm eggs are hardy. They are resistant to environmental changes and can remain alive outside for many years. There are no chemicals that effectively kill them. Live flame kills roundworm eggs, but most people are against torching their backyard!" says Dr. Paul.
Hookworms are also a problem for dogs and cats. These worms hook themselves to the intestinal wall and feed on blood. They are acquired by adults through skin penetration and ingestion of larvae. Puppies and kittens can be infected across the placenta and through milk.
Blood loss is the worst consequence of hookworms. Severe anemia--a decrease in red blood cells--is the result of extensive blood loss. Hookworms feed at several sites in the intestine. They release an anti-coagulant so clotting does not occur. The feeding sites continue to bleed after the worm moves on, and the result is a black, tarry stool. Bacteria can invade the body through these open wounds and cause infection.
Whipworms are a problem in the canine world, but cats do not become infected. "Whipworm eggs are tough organisms. They can survive adverse environmental conditions and are extremely resistant to drying," says Dr. Paul.
Adult whipworms live in the large intestine and eat blood meals by attaching to the intestinal lining. The worms' eggs are passed in the feces. They can cause inflammation, anemia, and weight loss. Whipworms are a common cause of bloody diarrhea in dogs.
Veterinarians diagnose worms by taking a fecal sample and identifying any eggs found there. Consult with your veterinarian on how often feces should be screened for worms.
The good news is it is easy to get rid of worms with medication. Your veterinarian has de-wormers that should clear up the problem in a few weeks. Re-checking the feces is important to make sure all worms have been eliminated. To prevent or control intestinal parasites, consult your local veterinarian.
Credit :
Author: Amanda Barth
University of Illinois, College of Veterinary Medicine
Source: Dr. Allan Paul
Intestinal parasites, or worms, are a plague to both dogs and cats. Most pets will harbor worms at some point in their lifetime. Puppies and kittens have a high incidence of intestinal parasites, and most receive de-worming treatment as part of their routine care. Roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms are the most common culprits of these infections.
"Roundworms are the most common intestinal parasite infecting dogs. Cats can get roundworms too, but it is not as prevalent," says Dr. Allan Paul, a veterinary parasitologist at the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine in Urbana.
Roundworms are spread when animals eat feces or soil contaminated with roundworm eggs. Mothers can also infect puppies through the placenta. Roundworms are spread to kittens through their mother's milk. Adult roundworms set up shop in the intestine and live off ingested food. They multiply rapidly; one female can lay up to 200,000 eggs per day!
Diarrhea and vomiting, leading to dehydration, are commonly seen with roundworms. Infected puppies have a distinct potbelly appearance. Adults are not seriously affected by roundworms. Puppies and kittens can become quite sick; they are more sensitive to dehydration.
"The warm temperatures of spring and summer are ideal for roundworm eggs to become actively infectious. Roundworm eggs are hardy. They are resistant to environmental changes and can remain alive outside for many years. There are no chemicals that effectively kill them. Live flame kills roundworm eggs, but most people are against torching their backyard!" says Dr. Paul.
Hookworms are also a problem for dogs and cats. These worms hook themselves to the intestinal wall and feed on blood. They are acquired by adults through skin penetration and ingestion of larvae. Puppies and kittens can be infected across the placenta and through milk.
Blood loss is the worst consequence of hookworms. Severe anemia--a decrease in red blood cells--is the result of extensive blood loss. Hookworms feed at several sites in the intestine. They release an anti-coagulant so clotting does not occur. The feeding sites continue to bleed after the worm moves on, and the result is a black, tarry stool. Bacteria can invade the body through these open wounds and cause infection.
Whipworms are a problem in the canine world, but cats do not become infected. "Whipworm eggs are tough organisms. They can survive adverse environmental conditions and are extremely resistant to drying," says Dr. Paul.
Adult whipworms live in the large intestine and eat blood meals by attaching to the intestinal lining. The worms' eggs are passed in the feces. They can cause inflammation, anemia, and weight loss. Whipworms are a common cause of bloody diarrhea in dogs.
Veterinarians diagnose worms by taking a fecal sample and identifying any eggs found there. Consult with your veterinarian on how often feces should be screened for worms.
The good news is it is easy to get rid of worms with medication. Your veterinarian has de-wormers that should clear up the problem in a few weeks. Re-checking the feces is important to make sure all worms have been eliminated. To prevent or control intestinal parasites, consult your local veterinarian.
Credit :
Author: Amanda Barth
University of Illinois, College of Veterinary Medicine
Source: Dr. Allan Paul
Vaccination and Health page 4
Kitten Health Care
Kitten, like infants, are born totally helpless. During their first weeks of life they depend not just on their mother’s care, but also on their owner. With care and patience, you can ensure that your kitten will mature into a healthy, contented adult.
Birth
At birth, kittens must be kept warm and away from drafts. They spend most of their time nursing or sleeping. In the second week, their eyes will open and begin to focus clearly. During the third and fourth weeks kittens cut their baby teeth, they will start to play and toddle around on wobbly legs. At eight weeks they need attention from people to develop good social behavior, they should be picked up, spoken softly, should be weaned and have a healthy appetite for solid food.
Medical Care
At this critical time, kittens lose the antibodies provided by the mother’s milk; they are very susceptible to colds or digestive upsets and should be vaccinated promptly. It is essential to take your kitten for a complete veterinary examination within a few days of purchasing, the kitten must be immunized against such illness as rabies, parvovirus, and distemper, and also be checked for heartworms. Click here for the schedule of vaccines.
Kitten Diet
Kittens require high-protein, high-calorie food two or three times daily. However, do not overfeed. As they grow into adulthood, you can decrease the number of meals per day. Serve food at room temperature and always provide clean, fresh water. Ask your veterinarian for the best-recommended diet for your cat. Attach a personal identification tag with your name, address, and telephone number on its collar.
Litter-Box Training
Mother cats usually teach kittens to use the litter box, but you can reinforce this training by placing the kitten in the box after feeding or playing. Repeat this several times until the kitten catches on.
Spaying and Neutering
Ask your veterinarian for the best time to spay or neuter your pet. The following are general recommendations:
Females should be spayed before their first heat cycle to reduce population and the risk of breast cancer and uterine infection.
Males should be neutered at around six months to reduce population, territorialism and aggression, as well as the risk of testicular cancer and prostate disease.
Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com
Kitten, like infants, are born totally helpless. During their first weeks of life they depend not just on their mother’s care, but also on their owner. With care and patience, you can ensure that your kitten will mature into a healthy, contented adult.
Birth
At birth, kittens must be kept warm and away from drafts. They spend most of their time nursing or sleeping. In the second week, their eyes will open and begin to focus clearly. During the third and fourth weeks kittens cut their baby teeth, they will start to play and toddle around on wobbly legs. At eight weeks they need attention from people to develop good social behavior, they should be picked up, spoken softly, should be weaned and have a healthy appetite for solid food.
Medical Care
At this critical time, kittens lose the antibodies provided by the mother’s milk; they are very susceptible to colds or digestive upsets and should be vaccinated promptly. It is essential to take your kitten for a complete veterinary examination within a few days of purchasing, the kitten must be immunized against such illness as rabies, parvovirus, and distemper, and also be checked for heartworms. Click here for the schedule of vaccines.
Kitten Diet
Kittens require high-protein, high-calorie food two or three times daily. However, do not overfeed. As they grow into adulthood, you can decrease the number of meals per day. Serve food at room temperature and always provide clean, fresh water. Ask your veterinarian for the best-recommended diet for your cat. Attach a personal identification tag with your name, address, and telephone number on its collar.
Litter-Box Training
Mother cats usually teach kittens to use the litter box, but you can reinforce this training by placing the kitten in the box after feeding or playing. Repeat this several times until the kitten catches on.
Spaying and Neutering
Ask your veterinarian for the best time to spay or neuter your pet. The following are general recommendations:
Females should be spayed before their first heat cycle to reduce population and the risk of breast cancer and uterine infection.
Males should be neutered at around six months to reduce population, territorialism and aggression, as well as the risk of testicular cancer and prostate disease.
Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com
Vaccination and Health page 3
Cat Emergencies
Basic First Aid
An injured cat is frightened and in pain. It may be uncooperative or be so frantic that it will attempt to bite or scratch, so wrap it in blankets, or provide other restraining measures that can prevent further injury. Timely action may be vital. It is wise to have a book on pet first aid on hand. Always keep a simple first-aid kit for pets in your home which contains bandages, tape, scissors, a blanket for restraint, and simple medications such as milk of magnesia (antacid laxative); hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting; antibiotic ointments for the eyes and skin; milk of bismuth (antidiarrheal) and mineral oil. Know the location of the nearest veterinary hospital.
Heat Stroke
If the cat is confined to a poorly ventilated car or pen or is exposed to the summer sun for long periods, it can get heat stroke, causing it to become frantic, unconscious, or groggy and gasping for breath. Remove the cat from the overheated place at once and immediately wet it thoroughly with water. Rapid cooling is vital. After this treatment, take the cat promptly to a hospital.
Poisoning
Cats are commonly poisoned because they groom themselves constantly and can ingest toxic substances picked up on their feet or fur. Do not use solvents that are toxic, such as turpentine, gasoline, or kerosene. It is best to let the material harden on the hair and then cut the hair off; it will soon grow back. Cats also like to eat leaves from house plants, but you should try to prevent this because some, like poinsettia, are highly toxic. In cases of suspected poisoning, always seek veterinary advice promptly.
Hair Balls
When cats groom themselves they swallow hair, which can accumulate in the stomach and intestines, causing the cat to vomit. Adding a teaspoonful of mineral oil to the cat’s food three days in a row helps compact mats of hair in the stomach and facilitates passage through the intestines. Then give the cat one to two teaspoonfuls of milk of magnesia on the fourth day to speed the recovery process. If your cat swallows a small object, it will usually pass safely through the intestinal tract and appear in the stool. To facilitate passage of sharp objects such as a needle, feed your cat small pads of cotton soaked in milk. They will surround the needle and escort it on its journey.
Bleeding
Bleeding can be controlled by a firm pressure bandage. Pull a clean sock on to the leg or wrap the cut area with a washcloth or layers of paper towels. Then wrap a bandage firmly over the sock or cloth. Start wrapping at the foot and continue up the leg in a spiral, going above the area of the cut. Transport the cat to a hospital.
Removing Thorns
Deeply embedded thorns and fishhooks require veterinary help, since anesthesia will be necessary. If a fishhook is superficially embedded, try to push the hook through, then cut the barbed end with cutting pliers and back the hook out. Remove a thorn with tweezers and/or a sewing needle. Puncture wounds are always infected, so treatment is necessary.
Bone Fractures
If a cat falls from a great height or is hit by a car, it will probably have broken bones and be in shock. If its leg is fractured, immobilize the cat, wrap the leg in layers of towels or newspapers, holding them in place with a cord. Animals with severe injuries are always in shock, so they must be wrapped in towels or blankets to conserve heat (even in warm weather) and promptly taken to a hospital.
Transporting Injured Cats
To move an injured cat, grasp it by the skin of the neck and by the skin of the rump near the tail. Then gently slide it onto a blanket or cardboard box. Pull the cat on the blanket along the ground so that it is moved with the legs trailing behind. Avoid bending the legs or backbone. Wrap blankets around the cat in the box to keep it warm and make it comfortable. A closed box or pillow case may have a calming effect. Then carefully lift the box into the car. If the cat is conscious, keep talking to it quietly reassure it.
Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com
Basic First Aid
An injured cat is frightened and in pain. It may be uncooperative or be so frantic that it will attempt to bite or scratch, so wrap it in blankets, or provide other restraining measures that can prevent further injury. Timely action may be vital. It is wise to have a book on pet first aid on hand. Always keep a simple first-aid kit for pets in your home which contains bandages, tape, scissors, a blanket for restraint, and simple medications such as milk of magnesia (antacid laxative); hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting; antibiotic ointments for the eyes and skin; milk of bismuth (antidiarrheal) and mineral oil. Know the location of the nearest veterinary hospital.
Heat Stroke
If the cat is confined to a poorly ventilated car or pen or is exposed to the summer sun for long periods, it can get heat stroke, causing it to become frantic, unconscious, or groggy and gasping for breath. Remove the cat from the overheated place at once and immediately wet it thoroughly with water. Rapid cooling is vital. After this treatment, take the cat promptly to a hospital.
Poisoning
Cats are commonly poisoned because they groom themselves constantly and can ingest toxic substances picked up on their feet or fur. Do not use solvents that are toxic, such as turpentine, gasoline, or kerosene. It is best to let the material harden on the hair and then cut the hair off; it will soon grow back. Cats also like to eat leaves from house plants, but you should try to prevent this because some, like poinsettia, are highly toxic. In cases of suspected poisoning, always seek veterinary advice promptly.
Hair Balls
When cats groom themselves they swallow hair, which can accumulate in the stomach and intestines, causing the cat to vomit. Adding a teaspoonful of mineral oil to the cat’s food three days in a row helps compact mats of hair in the stomach and facilitates passage through the intestines. Then give the cat one to two teaspoonfuls of milk of magnesia on the fourth day to speed the recovery process. If your cat swallows a small object, it will usually pass safely through the intestinal tract and appear in the stool. To facilitate passage of sharp objects such as a needle, feed your cat small pads of cotton soaked in milk. They will surround the needle and escort it on its journey.
Bleeding
Bleeding can be controlled by a firm pressure bandage. Pull a clean sock on to the leg or wrap the cut area with a washcloth or layers of paper towels. Then wrap a bandage firmly over the sock or cloth. Start wrapping at the foot and continue up the leg in a spiral, going above the area of the cut. Transport the cat to a hospital.
Removing Thorns
Deeply embedded thorns and fishhooks require veterinary help, since anesthesia will be necessary. If a fishhook is superficially embedded, try to push the hook through, then cut the barbed end with cutting pliers and back the hook out. Remove a thorn with tweezers and/or a sewing needle. Puncture wounds are always infected, so treatment is necessary.
Bone Fractures
If a cat falls from a great height or is hit by a car, it will probably have broken bones and be in shock. If its leg is fractured, immobilize the cat, wrap the leg in layers of towels or newspapers, holding them in place with a cord. Animals with severe injuries are always in shock, so they must be wrapped in towels or blankets to conserve heat (even in warm weather) and promptly taken to a hospital.
Transporting Injured Cats
To move an injured cat, grasp it by the skin of the neck and by the skin of the rump near the tail. Then gently slide it onto a blanket or cardboard box. Pull the cat on the blanket along the ground so that it is moved with the legs trailing behind. Avoid bending the legs or backbone. Wrap blankets around the cat in the box to keep it warm and make it comfortable. A closed box or pillow case may have a calming effect. Then carefully lift the box into the car. If the cat is conscious, keep talking to it quietly reassure it.
Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com
Vaccination and Health page 2
Cat Health.
Many cat dieases and ailments are not at all serious. Like people, cats are subject to several treatable maladies as well as health conditions that can be managed with medication. To help you evaluate the seriousness of a problem we have developed the following chart, rating common health problems in four categories: treatable ailments, manageable conditions, problems that can be corrected with surgery, and serious problems.
Body Malformations
Cleft palates
Face and head abnormalities
Kinked tails
Malformed jaws
Flattened chest (pectus excavatum)
Bone Problems
Crippling arthritis
Spinal deformities (spina bifida)
Circulatory Problems
Anemia
Heart defects
Cardiomypaphy
Ears - Hearing Problems
Deafness
Eyes and Seeing Problems
Cataracs (rare)
Clogged tear ducts
Entropion
Glaucoma (rare)
Lens luxation
Malformed tear ducts
Ocular dermoids
Retinal dysplasia (rare)
Tearing problems
Respiratory Problems
Breathing difficulties, short face
Chronic sinus problems
Nasal obstruction
Upper respiratory infections
Skin Problems
Allergic skin disease
Alopecia
Bacterial skin disease (rare)
Cysts
Seborrhic skin disorder (rare)
Skin acne
Other Health Problem
Urinary incontinence
Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com
Many cat dieases and ailments are not at all serious. Like people, cats are subject to several treatable maladies as well as health conditions that can be managed with medication. To help you evaluate the seriousness of a problem we have developed the following chart, rating common health problems in four categories: treatable ailments, manageable conditions, problems that can be corrected with surgery, and serious problems.
Body Malformations
Cleft palates
Face and head abnormalities
Kinked tails
Malformed jaws
Flattened chest (pectus excavatum)
Bone Problems
Crippling arthritis
Spinal deformities (spina bifida)
Circulatory Problems
Anemia
Heart defects
Cardiomypaphy
Ears - Hearing Problems
Deafness
Eyes and Seeing Problems
Cataracs (rare)
Clogged tear ducts
Entropion
Glaucoma (rare)
Lens luxation
Malformed tear ducts
Ocular dermoids
Retinal dysplasia (rare)
Tearing problems
Respiratory Problems
Breathing difficulties, short face
Chronic sinus problems
Nasal obstruction
Upper respiratory infections
Skin Problems
Allergic skin disease
Alopecia
Bacterial skin disease (rare)
Cysts
Seborrhic skin disorder (rare)
Skin acne
Other Health Problem
Urinary incontinence
Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com
Vaccination and Health page 1
Cat Vaccination and Health Care Schedule
Cats require vaccinations for the diseases listed below. For rabies, some states require annual revaccinations or revaccinations from 1 to 3 years. The exact schedule may vary depending on the type of vaccines used or your cat’s exposure to potential diseases.
8 weeks.
- Pneumonitis
- Distemper vaccine
- Intestinal parasite screen
- Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)
8 to 10 weeks.
- Calcivirus
- Feline Leukemia Virus/FIV test
- Feline Leukemia vaccine (only for cats at high risk)
- Panleucopia
- Rhinotracheitis
- Distemper vaccine
- Intestinal parasite screen
- Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)
12 to 14 weeks.
- Calcivirus
- Feline Leukemia Virus
- Panleucopenia
- Rhinotracheitis
- Distemper vaccine
2 to 4 months.
- Feline Lukemia Virus
1 year.
- One-year Rabies vaccine
- Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)
- Feline Leukemia vaccine (only for cats at high risk)
Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com
Cats require vaccinations for the diseases listed below. For rabies, some states require annual revaccinations or revaccinations from 1 to 3 years. The exact schedule may vary depending on the type of vaccines used or your cat’s exposure to potential diseases.
8 weeks.
- Pneumonitis
- Distemper vaccine
- Intestinal parasite screen
- Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)
8 to 10 weeks.
- Calcivirus
- Feline Leukemia Virus/FIV test
- Feline Leukemia vaccine (only for cats at high risk)
- Panleucopia
- Rhinotracheitis
- Distemper vaccine
- Intestinal parasite screen
- Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)
12 to 14 weeks.
- Calcivirus
- Feline Leukemia Virus
- Panleucopenia
- Rhinotracheitis
- Distemper vaccine
2 to 4 months.
- Feline Lukemia Virus
1 year.
- One-year Rabies vaccine
- Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)
- Feline Leukemia vaccine (only for cats at high risk)
Credit : http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com
Heal fungus in cat
Use pink a medicine that heal fungus of a person. wash at the skin of area cat. where is by still must not take a bath 1 before time abandon to keep about 15 minute. from that time lead a cat goes to take a bath pink with a cat normally. and bathe with pink a medicine repairs fungus in bathing finlly again.
use blow carry drily. may sprinkle child powder down on a cat the fustiness has been damp then use the cloth wipes powder that follows to carry go out protect a cat licks powder enters. take a bath with pink a medicine repairs fungus 3 every day. make be lost fast.
use blow carry drily. may sprinkle child powder down on a cat the fustiness has been damp then use the cloth wipes powder that follows to carry go out protect a cat licks powder enters. take a bath with pink a medicine repairs fungus 3 every day. make be lost fast.
Cat Hairball
For countless cat owners around the world, the topic of hairballs is something they would rather not discuss, let alone deal with. However, deal with it they must, as cat hairballs are a fact of life for most cats and their owners. Everything about hairballs is gross, there is no doubt about that from the hacking, coughing and vomiting that a cat goes through to produce one, to the wet, sticky, smelling mess that is often stepped on by the unsuspecting owner in the middle of the night. So what is one to do about this unfortunate part of cat ownership? Prevention.
Prevention of cat hairballs is the key to eliminating it from your life, if not forever, at least for the majority of the time. Before you can prevent a hairball, you need to understand how they come into being. As everyone knows, cats are fastidious about grooming. This is their downfall when it comes to hairballs. Hairballs are made up of all of the tiny hairs that the cat swallows while grooming. Since hair is very hard to digest, it sits in the intestines and causes a blockage. Soon it will be hard for food and water to get through the mass of hair, this will in turn cause the cat to have constipation, coughing spells after meals and eventually to produce the ever dreaded hairball.
Given the fact that cats are so particular about grooming, many of them take kindly to being brushed. Brushing your cat on a regular basis, at least once a week will greatly reduce the amount of fur that is ingested. It also has the added benefit of less hair on your furniture. While a good grooming regimen is a good place to start, it is not the only option that you have to prevent the appearance of hairballs.
Another avenue that should be explored when attempting to prevent cat hairballs is the food that the cat eats. A number of cat food manufacturers are targeting this issue. They recognize that pet owners are looking for a way to help that fits into the daily schedule. These foods have additives, extra oils and lubricants that help the body to naturally pass the hair through the intestines. While this method does work, it takes time for the body to process the extra ingredients properly.
A quicker method on the same premise is a lubricant that is fed to the cat as a treat or that is sprinkled onto the food. These will work quickly to help the intestines move the hair through the body, thereby preventing the dreaded hairball. One note of caution, always follow the recommended dosage and usage on the label. Many of these treatments will contain some form of mineral oil, when used too frequently, can cause a depletion in vitamin A. As always, if you have any questions, please consult your veterinarian.
Another, less expensive alternative is to give your cat a touch of butter, baby squash or canned pumpkin, generally, a ½ teaspoon every other day will be enough. This will act as a natural lubricant for the digestive tract.
Prevention of cat hairballs is the key to eliminating it from your life, if not forever, at least for the majority of the time. Before you can prevent a hairball, you need to understand how they come into being. As everyone knows, cats are fastidious about grooming. This is their downfall when it comes to hairballs. Hairballs are made up of all of the tiny hairs that the cat swallows while grooming. Since hair is very hard to digest, it sits in the intestines and causes a blockage. Soon it will be hard for food and water to get through the mass of hair, this will in turn cause the cat to have constipation, coughing spells after meals and eventually to produce the ever dreaded hairball.
Given the fact that cats are so particular about grooming, many of them take kindly to being brushed. Brushing your cat on a regular basis, at least once a week will greatly reduce the amount of fur that is ingested. It also has the added benefit of less hair on your furniture. While a good grooming regimen is a good place to start, it is not the only option that you have to prevent the appearance of hairballs.
Another avenue that should be explored when attempting to prevent cat hairballs is the food that the cat eats. A number of cat food manufacturers are targeting this issue. They recognize that pet owners are looking for a way to help that fits into the daily schedule. These foods have additives, extra oils and lubricants that help the body to naturally pass the hair through the intestines. While this method does work, it takes time for the body to process the extra ingredients properly.
A quicker method on the same premise is a lubricant that is fed to the cat as a treat or that is sprinkled onto the food. These will work quickly to help the intestines move the hair through the body, thereby preventing the dreaded hairball. One note of caution, always follow the recommended dosage and usage on the label. Many of these treatments will contain some form of mineral oil, when used too frequently, can cause a depletion in vitamin A. As always, if you have any questions, please consult your veterinarian.
Another, less expensive alternative is to give your cat a touch of butter, baby squash or canned pumpkin, generally, a ½ teaspoon every other day will be enough. This will act as a natural lubricant for the digestive tract.
Cat Breeds
Colorpoint Shorthair
Cornish Rex
Devon Rex
Egyptian Mau
European Burmese
Exotic
Havana Brown
Japanese Bobtail
Javanese
Korat
LaPerm
Maine Coon
Manx
Norwegian Forest Cat
Ocicat
Oriental
Persian
Ragdoll
Russian Blue
Scottish Fold
Selkirk Rex
Siamese
Siberian
Singapura
Somali
Sphynx
Tonkinese
Turkish Angora
Turkish Van
Credit : Photo from chanan , Helni
2550-11-11
Breed Persian
As the dusty desert caravans wound their way westward from Persia and Iran, it is supposed that secreted among the rare spices and jewels on the basket-laden camels was an even more precious cargo, an occasional longhair cat. They were called Persian for their "country of origin," but hieroglyphic references as early as 1684 B.C. shroud forever their exact beginnings.
Persians, with their long flowing coats and open pansy-like faces are the number one breed in popularity. Their sweet, gentle, personalities blend into most households once they feel secure in their new environment. Creatures of habit, they are most at home in an atmosphere of security and serenity, but with love and reassurance, can easily adapt to the most boisterous of households. Their quiet, melodious voices are pleasant and non-abrasive. They communicate delightfully with their large expressive eyes and make charming pets for all ages. Persians have short heavily-boned legs to support their broad, short bodies. They like to have their feet firmly planted and are not given to high jumping and climbing. Playful but never demanding, they love to pose and will drape themselves in a favorite window or chair, enhancing the decor in much the same way as a treasured painting. Persians are tremendously responsive and become a constant source of joy and delight to their owners. Pleasurable as an unexpected sunbeam, their companionship is close and enduring.
Their long flowing coats require an indoor, protected environment. Proper maintenance requires a daily run-through with a metal comb to eliminate the potential drawbacks of tangles and hairballs. An occasional bath, attempted only after a complete comb-through and clipping of the nail tips, will keep the coat clean, healthy and beautiful. It is wise to establish the routine of the bath when they are young. While the white Persian has long been the darling of photographers and advertisers, Persians come in an astonishing number of colors, which are divided into seven color divisions for purposes of competition. Those are:
Solid Color Division
Silver and Golden Division
Shaded and Smoke Division
Tabby Division
Particolor Division
Bicolor Division
Himalayan Division
Keeping the Persian indoors also keeps it safe from transmission of disease and parasites, as well as the dangers of urban life. With an annual trip to a trusted veterinarian, and good nutrition and care, the Persian can live as a family member for easily 15 years, and some surpassing 20 years. Persian breeders dedicate themselves to breeding healthy cats, availing themselves of the latest in veterinary screening procedures to test for any heritable disease conditions. A well-bred Persian is a hardy and healthy cat and is not more prone to illness and respiratory infections than other breeds. However, the large eyes do mean that a certain amount of tearing is normal, and a daily face wash is recommended.
Pricing on Persians usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National, National Breed and/or Regional winning parentage (NW, BW, RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.
Credit : Jeanie McPhee , Photo : Chanan Best of Breed GC, BW, NW MELOSITOS WHITE OWL OF D'EDEN LOVER, Copper-Eyed White Persian Male (http://www.cfa.org/)
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